Field guide

Japan

After three years of living in Japan, publishing a collection of my thoughts and recommendations for Japan.

One Gigantic Disclaimer

Tokyo is a massive city, and I am not Japanese. I hesitate to give recommendations because reducing this place to a list works against what makes it unique.

After three years of living here, the only way I want to show someone Tokyo is by picking a neighborhood, walking without trying to finish it, and letting the next place change the plan.

Some famous bars and restaurants are missing on purpose. Many are excellent, and many are easy to find. This guide is a personal field note, not a complete directory.

Tokyo

Do not try to cover it.

Tokyo is roughly 2,194 square kilometers, with 23 special wards and far more neighborhoods than any guide can handle. One trip is not enough. One year is not enough. A lifetime probably is not enough. My suggestion: pick one neighborhood and walk.

Cyclists racing on a velodrome at night
A velodrome track from above at night
A skier standing in deep snow
A green-lit concrete tunnel
A person sitting by the Seto Inland Sea
01

Daikanyama → Nakameguro → Ebisu

Coffee, shops, the river, dinner, then a bar if the night keeps going.

02

Yoyogi-Uehara → Tomigaya

Quiet streets, coffee, bread, wine, and the west-side places I return to most.

03

Shibuya → Oku-Shibuya → Dogenzaka

Use Shibuya as the start, not the point. Walk out, then come back after dark.

Snow piled on a village roof
A gardener watering flowers
Two people walking through a dark concrete passage

Suggested Itineraries

Leave Tokyo when the next place earns it.

01

Kamakura or Hayama

A temple-and-coast day 60–90 minutes from Tokyo by JR train, then a short local bus or walk.

02

Nikko

A cedar-forest and shrine escape about two hours from Tokyo by Tobu limited express.

03

Setouchi

An art-island and port route reached in about four hours by shinkansen to Okayama, then ferry.

04

Ishigaki and the Yaeyama Islands

A practical base for water, roads, pottery, and slower island days, about three and a half hours by direct flight from Tokyo.

05

A ski town

A mountain-and-onsen base two to three hours from Tokyo by shinkansen or rental car, with conditions deciding the final pick.

Winter

A skier standing under bare winter trees
A seaside cafe window reflection
A quiet modern interior with plants
A diver beside a quiet harbor

Summer

A small island shoreline from the water
A black and white underground stone chamber
Turquoise reef water at low tide
Abstract sunlight across a concrete wall
Two people walking through a dark concrete passage

Quick note

About this guide.

02

Some famous places are absent on purpose. They may be excellent; they are also easy to find.

03

The places and themes are hand-picked by me. This is a working guide, not a complete directory.